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Whether one is pro or anti-fur, it is assumed that buying, say, a parka or bag with fur trim is clearly marked on a tag. Regrettably, this isn’t always the case.

In a report published in January, the Humane Society International found that high-street brands and some of the biggest online retailers are selling wares that are too often made from the pelts of cats, dogs, raccoons and rabbits. Mislabelling has become increasingly pervasive, and what the average shopper believes is fake is sometimes the real thing. Blame it on the surplus of materials in China, a leading exporter of fur, and blatantly ignoring regulations that many nations have enacted.

“There are many new retailers and merchants selling fur for the first time,” says Charles Ross, the business manager of sustainability and supply chain management at Saga Furs, a leading auction house that sells certified fur pelts to the global fur and fashion trade. “It is possible that a mislabelling mistake can happen, but that is not a significant concern for the consumer or the retailer because this could only happen in very rare cases.”

Blind faith in manufacturers and their awareness of the supply chain has caused items to make it onto the sales floor. For companies that would suffer an enormous backlash if their labels were not up to standard, using experts to validate what they offer clients is crucial. But what about the items already in circulation? How can the average person distinguish a real fur from a fake one?

Here is a quick guide on how to ensure the label on your purchase is accurate.

Leather

Natural fur products have a leather base, so hairs grow out of skin and are not applied with thread or glue. “The leather to which the hair is attached should be visible when you part the hair and not woven tightly onto a fabric or plastic,” says Lysa Lash, a fourth-generation furrier in Canada. “The leather should be creamy white and soft. Better yet, try to open the lining to get a peek at the underside of the fur. It always should be leather [if it’s a real fur pelt].”

Look

Technological advancements enable many faux fur items to look remarkably like the real thing. However, there are clear indicators such as the shine. “Real fur is more lustrous than fake, and it’s extremely difficult to replicate real fur’s variation in texture and colour — especially the natural colours,” says Ross. Faux fur is made of synthetic substances, which often look different. “Natural fur looks oily like human hair,” adds Lash.

Also, faux pelts tend to have blunt ends from where they are cut to keep a uniform length. Natural ones have hairs that taper to a fine point.

Feel

Speaking of texture, real fur is supposed to be plush. Also, check for the directionality of the fur. “[Real pelts] feel soft and run in a smooth straight line,” indicates Ross. “Fake fur often feels coarser and can sometimes feel sticky in humid weather.” Even with treatment and dyes, the natural product should not feel synthetic.

Flammability

It may not be wise to light a flame in store, but should you really want to tell whether your intended purchase is real, try it with the utmost precaution. “Faux fur is highly flammable,” warns Lash. So, if the strands start to singe rapidly, it is most likely fake. Real fur will also have that oily aroma similar to singed human hair, whereas faux fur will emit a plastic-y aroma when burned.

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